{"created":"2024-03-22T01:32:19.609978+00:00","id":2000141,"links":{},"metadata":{"_buckets":{"deposit":"73dadc2c-ba83-474b-82c0-29a0224504a1"},"_deposit":{"created_by":31,"id":"2000141","owner":"31","owners":[31],"pid":{"revision_id":0,"type":"depid","value":"2000141"},"status":"published"},"_oai":{"id":"oai:nichibun.repo.nii.ac.jp:02000141","sets":["192:1711069521806"]},"author_link":[],"item_2_alternative_title_20":{"attribute_name":"その他の言語のタイトル","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_alternative_title":"<RESEARCH ARTICLE>Empress Shōken’s First Western Court Dress Made in Japan : Focusing on Ottmar von Mohl","subitem_alternative_title_language":"en"}]},"item_2_biblio_info_7":{"attribute_name":"書誌情報","attribute_value_mlt":[{"bibliographicIssueDates":{"bibliographicIssueDate":"2024-03-29","bibliographicIssueDateType":"Issued"},"bibliographicPageEnd":"44","bibliographicPageStart":"23","bibliographicVolumeNumber":"68","bibliographic_titles":[{"bibliographic_title":"日本研究","bibliographic_titleLang":"ja"},{"bibliographic_title":"NIHON KENKYŪ","bibliographic_titleLang":"en"}]}]},"item_2_description_4":{"attribute_name":"抄録","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_description":"　本稿は、文献史料をもとに昭憲皇太后（以下、皇后）の最初の国産洋装大礼服の製作者やその着用について考察を行うものである。1886（明治19）年にドイツ・ベルリンに発注された皇后最初の大礼服については、すでに拙論（柗居宏枝「昭憲皇后の大礼服発注をめぐる対独外交」（お茶の水女子大学『人間文化創成科学論叢』第18号、2015、39-48頁））において明らかにしている。その後、1887（明治20）年にドイツよりプロイセン皇室侍従長のオットマール・フォン・モールと妻のヴァンダが宮内省顧問として日本に招聘され、数々の宮廷儀礼が西洋式に改良された。中でもモール夫妻が国産洋服大礼服の製作に与えた影響は大きく、その指導によって織元の小林綾造が国産洋装大礼服を製作するに至るまでとなった。今回、宮内公文書館所蔵史料に加え、『郵便報知新聞』や『読売新聞』、『東京朝日新聞』における新年拝賀での皇后の大礼服の記述を渉猟したことにより、最初の国産洋装大礼服が、現在京都の尼門跡大聖寺に所蔵されている白繻子地刺繍草花模様大礼服であることが明らかになった。それは、1888（明治21）年1月23日に大島万吉が35万円で宮内省に納品したもの、かつ小林綾造が洋服地を製作していたもので、最初にドイツに発注された大礼服の約2.3倍の価格であった。\n　大礼服の国内生産が軌道に乗ったことにより、1891（明治24）年6月以降、皇后はさらに国内生産による洋服の奨励に意欲を見せた。自身が洋装することによって、日本の近代化を国内外に示しただけでなく、その制度改革は衰退していた織元の復興と殖産興業の発展にも貢献するものとなった。","subitem_description_language":"ja","subitem_description_type":"Abstract"}]},"item_2_full_name_3":{"attribute_name":"著者別名","attribute_value_mlt":[{"names":[{"name":"MATSUI, Hiroe","nameLang":"en"}]}]},"item_2_identifier_registration":{"attribute_name":"ID登録","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_identifier_reg_text":"10.15055/0002000141","subitem_identifier_reg_type":"JaLC"}]},"item_2_publisher_33":{"attribute_name":"出版者","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_publisher":"国際日本文化研究センター","subitem_publisher_language":"ja"},{"subitem_publisher":"International Research Center for Japanese Studies","subitem_publisher_language":"en"}]},"item_2_source_id_10":{"attribute_name":"書誌レコードID","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_source_identifier":"AN10088118","subitem_source_identifier_type":"NCID"}]},"item_2_source_id_8":{"attribute_name":"ISSN","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_source_identifier":"24343110","subitem_source_identifier_type":"EISSN"},{"subitem_source_identifier":"09150900","subitem_source_identifier_type":"PISSN"}]},"item_2_version_type_16":{"attribute_name":"著者版フラグ","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_version_resource":"http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85","subitem_version_type":"VoR"}]},"item_creator":{"attribute_name":"著者","attribute_type":"creator","attribute_value_mlt":[{"creatorNames":[{"creatorName":"柗居, 宏枝","creatorNameLang":"ja"}]}]},"item_files":{"attribute_name":"ファイル情報","attribute_type":"file","attribute_value_mlt":[{"accessrole":"open_access","displaytype":"detail","filename":"nike_068_023.pdf","format":"application/pdf","mimetype":"application/pdf","url":{"label":"nike_068_023.pdf","objectType":"fulltext","url":"https://nichibun.repo.nii.ac.jp/record/2000141/files/nike_068_023.pdf"},"version_id":"920a6cff-699d-4221-b8e4-1db52e81d6dd"}]},"item_keyword":{"attribute_name":"キーワード","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_subject":"昭憲皇太后","subitem_subject_language":"ja","subitem_subject_scheme":"Other"},{"subitem_subject":"大礼服","subitem_subject_language":"ja","subitem_subject_scheme":"Other"},{"subitem_subject":"洋装","subitem_subject_language":"ja","subitem_subject_scheme":"Other"},{"subitem_subject":"ローブ・デコルテ","subitem_subject_language":"ja","subitem_subject_scheme":"Other"},{"subitem_subject":"オットマール・フォン・モール","subitem_subject_language":"ja","subitem_subject_scheme":"Other"},{"subitem_subject":"ゲルゾン商会","subitem_subject_language":"ja","subitem_subject_scheme":"Other"},{"subitem_subject":"大聖寺","subitem_subject_language":"ja","subitem_subject_scheme":"Other"},{"subitem_subject":"小林綾造","subitem_subject_language":"ja","subitem_subject_scheme":"Other"},{"subitem_subject":"大島万吉","subitem_subject_language":"ja","subitem_subject_scheme":"Other"},{"subitem_subject":"Empress Shōken","subitem_subject_language":"en","subitem_subject_scheme":"Other"},{"subitem_subject":"court dress","subitem_subject_language":"en","subitem_subject_scheme":"Other"},{"subitem_subject":"Western clothing","subitem_subject_language":"en","subitem_subject_scheme":"Other"},{"subitem_subject":"Ottmar von Mohl","subitem_subject_language":"en","subitem_subject_scheme":"Other"},{"subitem_subject":"Gerson & Co.","subitem_subject_language":"en","subitem_subject_scheme":"Other"},{"subitem_subject":"Daishōji","subitem_subject_language":"en","subitem_subject_scheme":"Other"},{"subitem_subject":"Kobayashi Ayazō","subitem_subject_language":"en","subitem_subject_scheme":"Other"},{"subitem_subject":"Ōshima Mankichi","subitem_subject_language":"en","subitem_subject_scheme":"Other"}]},"item_language":{"attribute_name":"言語","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_language":"jpn"}]},"item_resource_type":{"attribute_name":"資源タイプ","attribute_value_mlt":[{"resourcetype":"journal 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